Products - Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

I did not find the answer to my question here. How do I get further assistance?

I really like your kit, but I'd like to (insert change here). Can you help me modify your model to (insert changes here), such as installing a larger engine?

We cannot recommend exceeding our engine recommendations or making other modifications to our models. Power recommendations are made based upon a variety of factors, including size, weight, fit, thrust, torque, and stress testing of the model. Even if a larger engine may fit on the airframe, that does not mean it is a good choice for the aircraft. Exceeding our engine recommendations voids your warranty and exposes you and those around you to additional risks. Likewise, chosing to use an engine smaller than our recommended engine range may provide the aircraft too little airspeed to fly safely and again voids your warranty and creates unnecessary risk.

When will you come out with a (insert model type here)?

Unfortunately, we are not able to provide any information on future releases or planned future kits. However, please use our Product Suggestion Form, which will be forwarded directly to the appropriate product managers for future consideration. Thank you for your time and interest! We take your suggestions seriously, and use consumer's suggestions in our considerations for future products. Please note that our design cycle is long and planned well in advance, and that a model needs to have good popular appeal for us to seriously consider it.

I heard about a new product which is not yet listed on your web site. How can I get more information?

If a product is not yet listed on our web site, chances are good that we do not yet have information on that newly released product. Please visit your favorite hobby shop and our web site regularly for new technical information as it becomes available.

Can you tell me how fast this model goes?

Unfortunately, we cannot estimate speed of our models. Speed is dependent on a large variety of factors, with the key one being engine and prop selection, but also including engine break in, altitude, humidity, temperature, fuel and plug, assembly accuracy and, of course, pilot skill. Please remember that if your model does not fly as quickly as you had anticipated that prop selection can make a huge difference. High diameter low pitch props are like low gear in your car - providing you lots of pulling power off the line (great vertical) but very little forward speed. Low diameter high pitch props are like high gear in a car - lots of top end speed, but poor acceleration off the flight line and poor vertical climb.

The manual for my model tells me to balance the plane laterally by picking it up by spinner and fin and seeing if it drops a wingtip, then add weight to the light tip to balance. Why do we do this?

Many things can cause an airplane to be out of balance laterally (from left to right), but usually the reason is very simple - an engine does not weigh the same from left to right of the aircraft because of mufflers, etc, and therefore the other side needs to be weighted appropriately to balance the plane this way. Balancing laterally is very important because an airplane that is balanced laterally will usually stall straight ahead and be very predictable and easy to handle at landing speeds. An airplane that is heavy on one side will drop that wing when it gets too slow to fly, increasing a possibility of a crash.

I used to own product X. I can't find it on your website now. Do you still make it? If not, will you produce it again?

If the product you are seeking is anything other than an accessory or repair parts for another item, then unless a product is brand new, if it is not listed on our web site then the product is no longer produced. Unfortunately, we cannot answer whether or not a product will be reproduced in the future.

Do you offer a wing kit/fuselage kit/tail kit for my aircraft?

We do not sell fuselage kits or tail kits for any of our models. We DO offer the individual parts so you can purchase just those items you really need so that you do not have to purchase an entire kit when you only need a few individual parts for repair. Note that if you need to replace an entire fuselage, or even most of one, starting from a new kit may be quicker, easier, and provide you a better product in the end.

We offer wing kits for a select few of our models, because wing damage due to a rough landing or crash is most common. We offer only those our customers have regularly requested. A wing kit is everything which came in the original kit to build a new wing, including all hardware, plans, and a manual. Again, you can purchase just the individual parts if you do not need the entire kit.

Below is a list of the wing kits we currently offer. Please note that this list is subject to change at any time without notice. Please contact your favorite hobby shop to purchase the wing kit you require.

DURA2010 2010 WING KIT TRAINER .40
DURA2020 DT40FK FUSELAGE COMPONENT KIT

This aircraft has dihedral or polyhedral in the wing. I want the model to be aerobatic. Can I remove this?

We strongly recommend against modifying the designs. Each aircraft is tested extensively and set up based upon a specific design parameter. For example, removing dihedral in the GP CAP 232 will result in the model having a noticable roll reaction when rudder is applied.

No matter what throttle setting I have, my tach always reads approximately 3600 RPM. What am I doing wrong?

Your tachometer is very likely reading flourescent lighting. Please note that your tach cannot operate properly in flourescent lighting. Please try using it in natural light.

What temperature should I use to apply my covering?

The temperature will depend upon the covering material you are using. Please see your covering material's instructions for guidelines. Please note, for example, clear and transparent MonoKotes have very different temp needs than opagues or flats.

For a chart on proper temperatures for popular coverings, please see:
http://www.coverite.com/accys/covr2700.html

For further information on working with covering materials, please visit:
http://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html
http://www.monokote.com/care.html
http://www.top-flite.com/reviews/trimgraphics.html

My manual says my model should have washout of x degrees. What is washout and how do I tell if my model has the proper amount?

For a definition of washout, please see our glossary.

You will want to utilize an incidence meter to determine the washout of the wing of your model. To do so, set the incidence meter on the root of the wing, and read the angle of attack of the root. Write this down. Now measure the angle at the tip of the wing and write this down. The washout in your wing is the difference between these two measurements (root - tip = washout).

Note that washout means the leading edge of the wingtip is lower than the leading edge of the wing root. If it is the opposite, the model has washin, which is desirable in certain types of aerobatic models for extreme performance, but not in most other models due to decreased stability.

Can I use a gyro in an airplane? When is it a good idea?

Aircraft gyros are fairly new, and some people consider them a bad idea while other people consider gyros to be the perfect tool for just about everything. Let's take a look at some of the common uses along with the pluses and minuses associated.

Will they help me learn to torque roll?

The most common request is how to set up gyros for learning to torque roll. (Don't know what a torque roll is? Please consider purchasing GPMZ0220, A Look at Aerobatics.)

One modeler describes torque rolling as the equivalent of balancing two plates on top of broom sticks, with your eyes closed, while bouncing a top a large rubber ball. So, if it doesn't come quickly and easily, don't fret! It takes a lot of time and practice. And don't be upset if a gyro doesn't suddenly make your model torque roll alone—it won't. But it will help a little to a lot, if everything is set up properly.

Using gyros in an aircraft to aid in torque rolling has its advantages and its drawbacks. Gyros can assist a modeler in learning to torque roll because it will correct SOME to ALL (depending on the type, quality and settings of the gyro) of the yaw and pitch movements caused by the torque and instability of the aircraft in this precarious position; however, it will also be countering corrections made by the modeler so the modeler has to think and move even faster and give even more input to make corrections against the gyro and the aircraft.

Basically, a torque roll is an extremely unnatural action for an aircraft which requires incredible pilot skill to maintain and complete. The model is being suspended solely by the power of the engine/thrust from the prop, with just the right amount of throttle being given to keep the model from climbing or tail sliding. The torque of the engine will pull the model around to the left, with no amount of aileron input in the world being able to stop the rotation UNLESS the model has ailerons extending all the way in against the fuselage or has ailevators functioning as ailerons. This torque, and gravity, are also twisting the model on both the yaw and pitch axes, which requires extreme skill by the modeler to correct.

If you wish to use gyros to help ease the difficulty of this complex maneuver, you will want to install one gyro each for the elevator and rudder surfaces. Note that if your model uses twin elevator servos which are plugged into separate ports you will need a product like the Hobbico Aircraft Gyro (HCAM4010) or the Futaba GYA351 (FUTM0817) which supports 2-channel input and output for a single axis.

We used to recommend AGAINST heading hold gyro settings for torque rolling, as the gyros sometimes seemed to lag behind, and improperly correct as the model got farther and farther into the torque roll. However, the new Futaba GYA350 and 351 gyros have changed our minds! These specialty gyros specifically for aircraft use perform superbly in AVCS (heading hold) mode in torque rolls and similar circumstances. (Always remember to switch out of AVCS mode for 'normal' flying.)

It is important to remember that, while heading holds are the only gyros which will truly return the model to its initial orientation (other gyros just correct for movement, but not necessarily back to the starting point), there are MANY situations in which you and your model can be unintentionally in danger when the heading hold returns the model to a position you did not intend.

Please remember that normal gyros will not 'do it for you'. They are not a 'missile lock' or 'heading lock' and do not fixate on a position in the sky and maintain it. They simply dampen unwanted (and wanted!) motion, so they will not make torque rolling suddenly easy. But depending on your skill, your model, and your understanding of the dynamics, they can be a good training aid for torque rolling.

How about other maneuvers?

Gyros ARE a great aid in many other aerobatic maneuvers. They are amazingly beneficial, for example, when used during maneuvers such as snaps, tumbles, and stall turns. In some cases the heading hold or AVCS option will be beneficial, and in others not. Always remember....if you try to change your yaw line without moving the rudder servo and have a heading hold gyro on the rudder (for example, doing a banked turn with just aileron and elevator), the heading lock gyro will immediately return the model to the initial direction of travel! Therefore, it is best to leave the gyro in standard mode, not heading lock mode, except in specific circumstances where you want the 'dead on tracking' of heading lock mode.

• A gyro on the rudder will minimize the yawing caused by torque on a slow up line such as entry to a stall turn, and minimize the tail wag on the exit.
• A gyro on elevator and rudder will cause snaps, spins, rolls and tumbles to stop essentially instantaneously when a modeler releases the inputs with no over rotation.
• A gyro on elevator and rudder can dramatically decrease the pilot inputs required to slow roll, and other precision rolling maneuvers such as ratchet rolls, rolling circles, 4-point rolls, etc.
• Straight lines of all types—whether horizontal, vertical, or anything in between, can benefit from the aid of a gyro.

Lastly, gyros are extremely popular on the rudder of scale aircraft, especially complex nostalgic aircraft which are notorious for difficult ground handling. In this case many modelers DO use a heading lock gyro or AVCS (heading hold) mode in a switchable gyro, but then turn off the heading lock feature the moment the model breaks ground. This way the model will literally track perfectly straight with no rudder input from the pilot whatsoever.

Keeping Wheels in Place on Axle and Model Tracking Straight

Install the wheels on the landing gear using two wheel collars per axle. Grind or file a flat spot at the point of set screw contact for each of the outer collars. This provides a better area for the set screw to bite and helps keep the wheels in place.

NOSE GEAR FLAT SPOT

1. When everything is aligned and the model tracks in a straight line when rolled along the ground, tighten the screw on the steering arm tight enough to leave a mark on the nose gear wire. Remove the nose gear from the engine mount and remove the steering arm assembly.
2. As mentioned, a flat spot is required on the nose gear wire. This flat allows the nose gear steering arm to be positively locked onto the nose gear wire providing a "no-slip" steering linkage.
3. Remove the steering arm from the nose gear wire and locate the mark left by the screw. Now, with the mark facing up, clamp the nose gear in a vise and use the side of a flat file or a Dremel® Moto-Tool® with a narrow grinding wheel, to make a flat spot at the mark.
4. Reassemble the nose gear and install it. Tighten the steering arm screw directly over the flat. Your nose gear steering will always remain positive, even on the roughest of surfaces.

Important things to check in Pre-Flight:

No list is all inclusive or fits all models, but here's a good starting point:

1. Charge the batteries - Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio instruction manual. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.
2. Balance the propeller - Balance your propellers carefully before flying. An unbalanced prop is the single most significant cause of damaging vibration. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration will also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration will cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run rough or quit.
3. Ground check the model - If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that you have the radio installed correctly and that all the control surfaces do what they are supposed to. The engine operation also must be checked and the engine "broken-in" on the ground by running the engine for at least two tanks of fuel. Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations for break-in. Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight.
4. Range check your radio - Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation of the radio before every time you fly. First, make sure no one else is on you frequency (channel). With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to walk the distance prescribed by your manufacturer and still have control. Have someone help you. Have them stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the various control surfaces are doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds with an assistant holding the model. If the control surfaces are not always acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first.

Important Engine Safety Precautions

No list is all inclusive, but here are some basics to watch for:

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines.
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; as the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
• Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects (pencils, screw drivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
• Use a "chicken stick" device or electric starter; follow instructions supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine causing a fire.
• To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything into the prop of a running engine.

Quantity/position of rubber bands to secure my model's wing?

If you are using rubber bands to attach your wing, the rule of thumb is to use two #64 rubber bands per pound of model weight. If your model tipped the scales at 7 pounds, you need 14 rubber bands. It doesn't matter too much how many you run straight across the wing or how many are criss-crossed, so long as the last two are criss-crossed. This trick stops the other bands from popping off. Do not use oily rubber bands for more than a few flying sessions. Check each rubber band before using it, watch out for cracks. Rubber bands can be conditioned by storing the oily ones in a zip-top storage bag partially filled with talcum powder or corn starch. Both products will absorb the oil.

Basics of Flying—IncludingTaxi/Take-Off/Landing

Of course, no brief written guide can replace an instructor in safely teaching you to fly. This guideline is intended only to help you understand the steps to come and practice in simulation when your instructor is not available.

TAXIING

Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle. Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work the controls. Upon release advance the throttle slightly to start rolling, then back-off the power to prevent going too fast and possibly taking off. Stand behind the plane as it taxies away from you and note the direction it turns as you move the rudder control. One thing to keep in mind with R/C models (whether it be cars, boats, or planes) is that the steering controls may seem to "reverse" when the model is moving toward you. For example, if you are flying toward yourself, and you give a right control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will move off to your left. The fact of the matter is of course, that the controls are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a right turn. The plane does move off to your left from your vantage point, but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you would realize the plane turned to the right as commanded. All it takes is a little practice to maintain proper orientation of your aircraft ( it sometimes helps to face the direction of movement and look over your shoulder), but that's why we recommend finding an instructor. When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but pull back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this several times, adding a little more power each time. If the plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the power to prevent a mishap. Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you started. Although trainers offer the greatest opportunity of success for the self-taught, there is a high probability that you will crash your airplane on the first flight. Protect your investment of time and money—obtain the assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.

TAKEOFF

Your first flights should be made in little or no wind. If you have dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to "low rate" for takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind. Although trainer models have good low speed characteristics, you should always build up as much speed as your runway will permit before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in case of a "flame-out." Advance the throttle smoothly to the wide open setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed (you won't know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a little up elevator (don't "jerk" it off to a steep climb!), and climb out gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings level. The model should climb at a 20 or 30 degree angle under full throttle. Climb to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle turn by moving the aileron stick. Apply a little more back pressure on the elevator stick as the plane turns. Stop the turn by moving the aileron stick in the opposite direction until the wings are level then return the stick to the neutral position. Pull the power back to 1/3 throttle.

FLYING

We recommend that you take it easy with your trainer for the first several flights and gradually "get acquainted" with the plane as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Most trainers are designed to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately 1/4 to 1/3 throttle—this is the best speed for learning to fly. On later flights, if you want the model to maintain level flight at full throttle, you will need to give it a little down trim.

Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level flight with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These flights will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs and maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As mentioned earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the aircraft with the ailerons (rudder will accomplish this on a 3-channel airplane) then gently adding some back stick (up elevator). Enough back stick should be held in to keep the aircraft at a constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite aileron (or rudder) to level the wings, then release the sticks. There is a memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble when the plane is flying toward you—"put the stick under the low wing." In other words, move the stick in the direction of the low wing to raise that wing. When you are comfortable flying the aircraft, you can practice using the rudder along with the ailerons to 'coordinate' the turns—usually, a small amount of rudder applied in the direction of the turn will keep the tail following the same track as the nose.

The most common mistake when learning to fly is "over control." Think of pressure instead of large movements of the control sticks. Remember nearly all trainers will recover from almost any over control situation within 50 - 100 feet if you simply let go of the sticks.

Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how your plane behaves in each one. For ultra-smooth flying and normal maneuvers, we recommend using the "low rate" settings as listed in your manual. High rate control throws will give your model enough control for loops, barrel rolls, and many other basic aerobatic maneuvers.

After you have several flights on your trainer, its time to reward yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver—a loop. Climb to a safe altitude and turn into the wind. Apply full throttle, level the wings, then slowly pull back on the elevator stick to about 1/2 to 3/4 up elevator (depending on your throws), and hold this control input. After you go over the top and start down the back side of the loop, pull the throttle back to about half, this will keep the stresses on the airplane low and the airspeed relatively constant. Keep holding "up" elevator until the plane is level, then slowly release the sticks. You're done! It's really that easy!

LANDING

When it's time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and approach as follows: Reduce the power to about 1/4 and fly a downwind leg far enough out from the runway to allow you to make a gentle 180 degree turn. As you make the turn into the wind for your final approach, pull the throttle back to idle. The PT-60 has a lot of lift so you will need a slow, reliable idle in order to achieve a nice slow landing. Allow the plane to keep descending on a gradual glide slope until you are about 3 feet off the runway. Gradually apply a little up elevator to flare for landing. You should apply just enough up elevator to hold the plane just off the runway while the excess speed bleeds off. The trainer should settle onto the runway for a slow, slightly nose-high landing.

Model snaps, tip stalls, or loops off to one side. What can I do?

There are a variety of causes of this behavior.

1. CG: A tail heavy model will snap on elevator input, particularly aerobatic models such as a giles, cap, or extra. Additionally, they will tend to go nose up at an idle, causing the model to stall unexpectedly. For example, the Great Planes Giles G202 .46 sized model is DESIGNED AND INTENDED to snap on elevator input alone when using the high rates, which are solely for 3D flight. Be sure you are flying on a low rate intended for normal flight performance.
   
   
2. Lateral Balance: The #1 cause of a tip stall or unexpected snap is improper lateral balance. If one wingtip is heavier, it will stall first and drop first. Be sure to lateral balance carefully, actually suspending the model off the floor and measuring the tips' distance from the floor. See other areas of our FAQ for more info on lateral.
   
   
3. Wing warp: Another very common cause of tip stalls is uneven washin or washout in a model. Use an incidence meter to check the incidence angles of the roots and tips of both wings, and a variety of points in between. The two wing roots should be identical when compared to the tail, and the two tips should be no more than 1 degree of difference between them. Even a model which should not have washin will perform better if the washin is even than a model which has no washin but has uneven washout. See other areas of our FAQ for information on adding washout/correcting uneven washin.
   
   
4. Next please check that the elevator halves are perfectly straight to the stab. Next use a throw gauge to measure the actual elevator throw at neutral then at full travel. You may need to make adjustments to get these two identical. They MUST BE.

How long can I store unopened fuel? How about opened fuel?

1. Unopened fuel which is stored out of direct sunlight is literally good for years. We have opened 10-year old containers and had the fuel be fully potent and usable. However, in general it is a good idea to use the fuel off your shelves annually, especially if exposed to sunlight.
   
   
2. Once fuel has been opened, it has been exposed to air which includes moisture. Both water and sunlight are your fuel's enemy, so the more frequently or the longer it is exposed the more rapidly it will deteriorate. In general we recommend customers use all open containers of fuel in a single modeling season then properly discard any remaining fuel.

My switch stopped working, and when I checked it, I found the black wire all corroded. The copper part looked dark and was brittle. What happened?

This is a case of what's been called "Black Wire Corrosion". Over time, the negative lead from the battery pack, through the switch harness, to the receiver will corrode until the copper wire becomes dark, almost black, and brittle. It no longer has the bright "coppery" look, and is no longer flexible.

The cause is storage of the system in a damp environment with the battery installed. The effect of the wire being connected to the battery pack, and the environmental moisture, will cause an electrical effect to promote corrosion of the wire. The corrosion usually starts at the battery pack and works its way towards the switch harness.

A "damp" environment does not necessarily mean that it's particularly humid. Storage in a garage or shed provides enough humidity to allow the corrosion to happen. The wet that gets brought into a garage from your car is enough. It will happen faster if the battery pack is not maintained and allowed to go flat. Keep the battery charged and cycle it regularly to prevent or slow down the corrosion.

The net result of black wire corrosion is to make the battery lead act like a resistor, which will prevent proper current flow from the battery pack to the receiver and servos. In some cases, the resistance can be high enough that during aerobatics, with all servos moving, the voltage at the receiver can drop enough to cause the receiver to quit. The model crashes as a result.

What can make this baffling is the fact that the R/C system may operate normally when tested. That's because the tests don't involve high loads upon the servos, so the voltage drop caused by the resistance of the corroded wire isn't enough to cause the receiver to quit.

Transmitter batteries can also be affected, but usually not as much because transmitters are usually stored in a friendlier environment. They still need to be checked periodically, though. When the corrosion gets bad enough, the transmitter will just not turn on. It's not likely that the transmitter will fail during a flight.

The effects on the corrosion would also be seen on the transmitter's power meter as low output. The battery pack gets blamed, gets replaced, and the problem goes away. That's because a new battery pack comes with new wires. Corrosion may never even be suspected or found in these cases.

There is no cure once black wire corrosion starts. You can only replace the wires. Prevention requires that your equipment be stored in a clean, dry environment, and maintain your batteries. Store them fully-charged and cycle them regularly. If you can't do that, then at least remove the batteries from your models, and store them, along with your transmitters, inside, where the temperature and humidity are fairly stable, compared to a garage or shed.

Is it ok to let my antenna touch the pushrods, servo leads, etc?

No. It is important not to let the antenna touch the pushrods, servo leads, etc. It is particularly important not to allow the antenna to make contact with anything metallic in the aircraft. We recommend running the antenna through its own pushrods tube to isolate it safely.

My airplane's electric motor runs in the wrong direction. What do I do?

First off, it's not the speed control. Model airplane speed controls have only forward, off, and sometimes propeller brake. The problem is elsewhere.

There are two things to check. First off, make sure your motor is wired correctly. Sometimes the "+" and "-" symbols on the motor are not correct for your installation, and you really have your motor wired backwards. You can easily check this with a tach. If your motor turns more RPM in one direction than the other, the higher-RPM direction is the correct direction.

If your motor is wired correctly, but the propeller still turns in the wrong direction, you may have to change how you're gearing the motor. This usually happens when a gearbox and motor are put together by the modeler, and the motor was not purchased specifically for the gearbox.

I did not find the answer to my question here. How do I get further assistance?

• Ask a technical support, customer service, or product related question
  
  
• Submit a product suggestion or improvement idea
  
  
• Contact Hobby Services

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